In my church directory shooting it did not take long to appreciate non-glare glasses. I also had to figure a way to deal with glasses that had a good bit of reflectivity. A catch light looks nice in the iris but a full reflection of an umbrella or softbox in a pair of glasses that obscure the subjects eyes really looks bad.

See what I mean. So how do we work with these types of glasses. If we use the geometry tat the angel of incident light equals the angle of reflective light we can simply position the light so it does not reflect off the glasses. Easier said than done, especially in a limited work space. Glasses can be tilted but can look goofy, the subject can tilt their head done slightly but that can look unnatural. The solution I found works best and only takes a couple of minutes in post is to have the subject remove their glasses and assume the same pose. Shoot off another round and you have the head shot with and without glasses. If the exposure is close (which it should be real close) the work is even easier.
Take both images into Photoshop and make a selection around the non-glassed eyes that encompasses part of the forehead, all of the glasses and some of the cheeks and nose. Command-J to put the selection on another layer then drag that layer over to the image with the glasses headshot. See below.
Alignment can be critical and if the subject has changed the pose, sometimes you will have to split the eyes and do the next sep on separate layers. Now on the eye cut-out change the blending mode to Difference and start to drag the cut-out over the headshot with the glasses. If the pose is very close, most of the cut-out will go dark as it aligns with the other image. See below.
It does not have to be perfect but as close as you can get it. Sometimes you must free transform to rotate the eyes to match up or even split them as I just described. Once you have the images in alignment change the blending mode back to normal.
Now you want to add a layer mask to the eye cut-out and fill the mask with black.
The black mask covers the cut-out and when you paint the mask with a white brush the image beneath the mask will be revealed on the layer.
In the image above you can see that one eye has been exposed on the layer above the glassed eye and white painted in the glass area only. This has the effect of erasing the glare and is really slick. You end up with the image looking like the one below.
One of the problems with this procedure is the shot without glasses is usually a little over exposed in relation to the eyes behind the glasses. To fix this it just takes a slight levels adjustment applied to the masked layer. It is important to make this levels adjustment a clipping mask so the adjustment is only applied to the layer emediately below the clipping mask and not all the layers below.
So why did we make the extra step? Giving the eyes a different exposure will make it look like there is glass in the frames. Compare the image above and the one below.
It does not take much of a levels adjustment to make the difference but you don't want to look too obvious do we. So the above image is the finished product and rather than have you scroll all the way to the top, below is the original image.
When zoomed back out to get the whole head shot, or family portrait, the image will look as natural as can be.
Hope you got something out of this little tip today.
On a posting note, this week we will be having family in and will also be off to other family members for Thanksgiving so I will not be posting this week unless I get extraordinarily bored which I don't think is going to happen.
Cya next week from the road... Doug